WHEELS, AXLES, and CRANKPINS  Page 2 of 2

       

 

 

ALAN GIBSON

Produces a range of wheels which have steel tyres and moulded plastic centres and are representative of particular prototype wheels. The driving wheels require crankpins and balance weights.

KEAN-MAYGIB

This range of wheels have blackened steel tyres, plastic spoked centres and require crankpins and balance weights. The range covers most of the popular well known locomotives.

U LTRASCALE

This range has nickel silver tyres with moulded plastic centres and are accurate representations of the prototypes. Crankpins are supplied with the axles and wheels in sets.

SHARMAN WHEELS

This range has steel tyres and moulded plastic centres, with accurate representations of the prototypes. The crankpins are moulded onto the wheels and a comprehensive range is available. Weights are added separately.

For more information on these ranges, it is recommended that the appropriate catalogues are obtained. All of these ranges, with the exception of ROMFORD, require the wheels to be push fitted onto the axles and then quartered. There are jigs available to assist in this operation.

AXLES

All FINECAST chassis kits are supplied with 1/8" brass driving axle bushes. All of the driving axles supplied by the companies above are 1/8". BOGIE, PONY and TENDER wheel AXLES should be 2.0mm diameter for FINECAST chassis, as supplied in the JACKSON range. It may be necessary to modify the axle holes, other wheels are being used. Please refer to the information given by the wheel manufacturer.

QUARTERING

To qualify the term quartering, for the beginner. It is essential that the crankpins of the wheels on the same axle, are at 90 degrees to each other. This is to say, when the chassis is viewed from above, the crankpin of the right hand wheel is in the fully forward position and the left hand crankpin, is at the top of its wheel. This means that the right hand wheels are leading the left hand wheels by 90 degrees. This is the normal setting for most British locomotives, however there are exceptions to the rule, where the left hand wheel leads. Failure to set this 90 degrees lead will result in the chassis not running smoothly, or not at all.

If a quartering jig is not available, assemble one axle, so that the quartering is as near 90 degrees as possible. Then assemble the second axle near to the first and then adjust this axle until the coupling rods can be fitted and the four wheels rotate freely, without binding. DO NOT readjust the first axle, only one requires to be adjusted. When satisfied fit the third axle and so on. If there is a general tightness, it may be necessary to open out the coupling rod holes very slightly, one at a time until the wheels run free. These holes should not be made oval or any other shape, only round. Providing the quartering is correct, a serious binding problem can probably be traced back to a chassis that has not been built square.

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